So, what is the ideal line?
In my opinion, you are looking for the best compromise of weight, strength, and handling for you and your dog. The best compromise for a Border Collie on a 40’ line will be different than for a Bloodhound on a 20’ line. Below I have listed some items for you to consider.
Your line and your dog should be matched. For instance, a ¾" heavyweight is inappropriate for a small beagle, and a ½" lightweight is equally inappropriate for a bloodhound. I want you to get a line that you'll be happy with, not just what I happen to have in stock.
The Biothane leads I sell actually come in two thicknesses, LW (lightweight) and HW (heavyweight). Think of these as thick and thin. The strength is the same for each. The difference lies in how the line feels and handles. The thin variety has a weight advantage. It is a bit thinner than a leather or cotton flat line. However, because it is thin, it is not as easy to grip as the thick variety, and so is most appropriate for small dogs and medium-sized dogs that do not pull hard.
The thick variety is somewhat heavier (about 30%). It is about as thick as a flat leather leash, thicker perhaps and heavier than a flat cotton line. It has superior grip and is appropriate for larger breeds and dogs that pull hard. If you have a small breed I recommend the ½" width and if you have a tiny toy breed, I recommend the ⅜” lightweight lines.
What length do I need?
AKC Tracking:
Section 14 says the leash will be 20’ - 40’
(Most AKC Trackers seem to interpret this as, it must be 40’. In my opinion, especially for some smaller dogs, 33 feet is a very good length, and it falls within the AKC specifications. )
Schutzhund Tracking:
10 meters (33 feet)
SAR Tracking:
Personal preference, based upon terrain and situation.
In open areas I prefer a 20’ - 25’ line.
In woods and scrub, I find that a 15’ line is more manageable.
In town, a 15’ line keeps my dog closer and safer.
AKC Obedience:
Generally 6’
What about thickness?& width?
⅜” LW (lightweight)
Excellent for toy breeds, and for small breeds that do not pull excessively.
Nominal break strength is approximately 375 pounds.
Handling is good.
½” LW (lightweight)
Excellent for small or lightweight dogs.
Nominal break strength is approximately 500 pounds if sewn.
Handling is fair.
½” HW (heavyweight)
Excellent for small or lightweight dogs, or medium-size dogs who do not pull hard.
Nominal break strength is approximately 500 pounds if sewn.
Handling is good.
⅝” LW (lightweight)
Excellent for medium-size dogs, especially if they do not pull hard.
Nominal break strength is approximately 625 pounds if sewn.
Handling is fair.
⅝” HW (heavyweight)
Excellent for medium and large dogs, especially if they do not pull hard.
Nominal break strength is approximately 625 pounds if sewn.
Handling is very good. (My personal favorite for my Malinois).
¾” LW (lightweight)
Very strong. Nominal break strength is approximately 750 pounds if sewn.
Can be used for collars, but is not recommended for leashes.
¾” HW (heavyweight)
Good for the giant breeds, and for high drive large breeds. Very strong.
Nominal break strength is approximately 750 pounds if sewn.
Handling is good, but suffers because of the weight.
Hand loops
You can get your line made with a hand loop, or with no hand loop. For many uses, I personally prefer the no hand loop option. Here’s why:
I have a tendency to let my line drag behind me as I work. A loop manages to lasso roots, rocks, shrubs, small children and The Lost City of Atlantis. In turn, this can you give my dog an unintended line check (If my dog gets a line check. I want it to be an intended line check… Because he was committed some major infraction or some such, not because the end of the line snagged on a rock --Very counterproductive to training!). Of course, it's your line, and your decision.
The functions of a
tracking line
A tracking line serves several functions. One function, of course, is that it keeps you in the vicinity of your dog while your dog is following the trail. In my opinion, this is not its main function.
The main function of the tracking line is as a communication device. The tension that you keep on the line keeps your dog in two-way communication with you. By the tension in the lead, he can tell whether you are letting him work, or asking him the question, "Are you sure?"
By what you feel in the line, you can tell how committed he is to the track.
The amount of communication that flows up and down the line depends on the weight of the line, and on the length of the line. A very long line, and a heavy line tends to damp out communication because you cannot feel what the dog is doing, and the dog cannot feel you on the line. The line at that point is a dead weight rather than a communication device. For tracking, the ideal line has zero stretch (because stretch tends to damp out communication also) and is light, so that you feel everything that the dog does and he feels everything that you do, and it is comfortable to handle. During my SAR tracking days, I found that for relatively open areas, I prefer a line that is 25 to 33 feet long, and for trashy undergrowth type areas (and for urban areas where he could get in trouble), I preferred a line that is about 15 to 18 feet long. Since I make my own lines, I had no problems keeping two lines in my go-kit (different colors, of course).
If you are working a bloodhound, you might be able to use a ¾” line effectively. Most Malinois, GSDs, and Duchies (in my experience) work better on a ⅝” heavyweight line. They tend to be more sensitive on the tracking line and there seems to be more communication in both directions: The dog saying "I've got it now" or "Oh, that's an interesting smell,” and the handler saying "I'm still here and I’ve got your back" or "Slow down".
Line length & decision-making
Your SAR dog has no trouble making decisions when you are not around. He does it all day, and all night. However, when you are in the area, your dog defers many of his decisions to you. The closer you are the more he defers those decisions to you. For this reason, especially in training, you might want to consider a relatively long line.
The leash is just a tool. If you ask a mechanic which tool is his most important one he would probably tell you, "it depends" sometimes it's a socket wrench, sometimes it's a screwdriver, occasionally it may be a big bloody hammer. Different circumstances demand different tools.
For your dog, some days you need a long line and some days you will need a shorter line. In beginning tracking, you will usually be spending a good bit of training time in relatively open areas. In these conditions, I prefer a line that is 25 to 33 feet in length. That gets you far enough away from your dog that he is more likely to make decisions on his own (based on the odors presented to him), rather than accepting input from you.
When you get into brushy, trashy, or just plain crappy terrain, you will probably need to be closer to your dog. A shorter line is generally needed in these areas. You can't always just loop the line up, and hold it in your hand. There are times when the shorter line works oh-so-much better.
